1990–2018. Short wheelbase, long wheelbase, cabriolet W463 and the 6x6 and 4x4² specials. Tell us the chassis number and what the car is doing, and we will come back with the part, the price and the lead time.
A G-Class W463. Shown to help you confirm the generation — trim, lights and bumpers vary within it.CC0 · Wikimedia Commons
Every part
Parts for the W463
All 415 parts across 16 systems, from brake discs to AIRMATIC struts. Search it, or open the system that matches what the car is doing — the symptom is written on every one.
415 parts across 16 systems
Brakes31 parts+
Everything that slows and stops the car.
You are here because: Squealing or grinding when braking, a soft or long pedal, a brake warning light, or pulling to one side under braking.
To quote this we need: Front or rear, and whether the car has the sports or AMG brake package — the disc diameter changes with it.
What holds the wheels to the car, absorbs the road, and points the car where you steer.
You are here because: Knocking over bumps, the car sitting low on one corner, wandering or heavy steering, uneven tyre wear, or an AIRMATIC warning.
To quote this we need: Whether the car is on steel springs or air suspension. On Mercedes this changes the part completely and it is the most common mis-order.
The sensors the car reads and the modules that decide what to do about them.
You are here because: A warning light with no obvious fault, a fault code from a scan, windows or locks that stop working, or intermittent electrics.
To quote this we need: The fault code if a garage has scanned it. Many modules must be coded to the car after fitting — that is a job as well as a part.
Seeing and being seen — and on a modern Mercedes, one of the most expensive things to replace.
You are here because: A cracked or fogged light, a bulb out, condensation inside the unit, or a lighting fault on the dash.
To quote this we need: Whether the car is halogen, xenon or LED, and pre- or post-facelift. Lights change inside a generation more than any other part.
Panels, glass and trim — what an accident, a car park or the sun damages.
You are here because: Accident damage, a dent or rust, a knocked-off mirror, peeling trim, or a cracked screen.
To quote this we need: A photograph, the chassis code and the paint code. Paint code is on the data sticker; panels are usually supplied primed, not painted.
Everything inside the cabin, including the parts the Gulf sun destroys first.
You are here because: A cracked or sticky dashboard, a sagging roof lining, a broken switch or handle, worn seat bolsters, or a rattle from the trim.
To quote this we need: Trim colour and code from the data sticker. The same part is made in several finishes and they are not interchangeable to look at.
Complete assemblies from stripped cars, where a new part is not proportionate to the job.
You are here because: An expensive assembly has failed on an older car, or an insurance repair has to be done at a price that makes sense.
To quote this we need: Chassis number and a photograph. We will say plainly whether a part is new or used — a used part sold as new is not a saving, it is a problem later.
These are the parts a Mercedes-Benz G-Class W463 (1990–2018) is built from, not a stock list. We source genuine, OEM and aftermarket and will price them side by side — send the chassis number and we will confirm the exact part before anything is ordered.
The detail on this car
Make sure this is your carchassis code, years and body variants
Make sure this is your car
The W463 was built 1990–2018. Two G-Class cars a year apart can be different generations and share almost no parts, so the chassis code — not the model name and not the year — is what decides fitment.
Worth knowing. Nearly thirty years on one chassis code, with major changes inside it. The year matters more here than on any other Mercedes — send the chassis number.
Not sure which one you have? Read the chassis number off your mulkiya, or from the base of the windscreen on the driver's side. Send us all seventeen characters and we will tell you the generation, the body and usually the engine. How to read it.
Which engine do you havebadge on the boot to engine code
Which engine do you have
Engines fitted to the W463
Find the badge on the boot of your car in the left column. The code beside it is what we order parts against — several groups below need it, and emissions parts need it most.
Badge on the car
Engine code
Engine
Fuel
G 200 / G 230
M102
2.0–2.3 four-cylinder
petrol
G 300
M103
3.0 straight-six
petrol
G 320 / G 360 (early)
M104
3.2–3.6 straight-six
petrol
G 320 (later)
M112
3.2 V6
petrol
G 500 (early)
M117
5.0 V8
petrol
G 500
M113
5.0 V8
petrol
G 500 / G 550 (later)
M273
5.5 V8
petrol
G 55 AMG / G 55 AMG Kompressor
M113
5.4 V8, supercharged on the Kompressor
petrol
G 63 AMG (2012 on)
M157
5.5 V8 biturbo
petrol
G 65 AMG
M279
6.0 V12 biturbo
petrol
G 63 AMG 6.3 V12
M137
6.3 V12
petrol
G 250 D
OM602
2.5 straight-five
diesel
G 270 CDI
OM612
2.7 straight-five turbo
diesel
G 300 D / G 350 Turbodiesel
OM603
3.0–3.5 straight-six
diesel
G 300 Turbodiesel
OM606
3.0 straight-six turbo
diesel
G 300 CDI
OM642
3.0 V6 turbo
diesel
G 400 CDI
OM628
4.0 V8 biturbo
diesel
Not every engine reached every market — the UAE range is predominantly petrol. If your badge is not listed, or the car has been re-badged, the engine code is stamped on the block and printed on the data card; send the chassis number and we will read it off that instead.
What goes wrong on this carresearched per engine, with sources
Known faults
What goes wrong on the W463
Researched per engine and per chassis, with the source shown against each one. If what your car is doing is on this list, you already know roughly what you are buying.
On the W463 itself
Faults that belong to the car rather than to whichever engine is in it.
Biodegradable wiring harness
Cars built roughly 1992–1997, every model and both fuels
Faults that move around — misfires, warning lights that come and go, electrics that work one day and not the next, and brittle or bare wiring visible in the engine bay.
Mercedes used a soy-based insulation on the looms through these years. Heat and time harden it, then it cracks, then it turns to powder and leaves bare copper shorting against whatever it touches. Chasing the individual faults is money spent twice — the loom is replaced as a unit. How to tell: lime-green wiring is the affected type. A two-wire sender in blue and brown, or a single-wire temperature sender with a black wire, is the good harness. It is usually the upper and lower engine looms that go first.
These are known faults, not your car’s faults. Plenty of these cars never see any of them, and several of the faults above look identical from the driver’s seat while needing completely different parts. Have it scanned, send us the codes and the chassis number, and we will quote what it actually needs rather than what it might.
On the engines fitted to it
Check the engine code against the badge on your boot in the table above — a fault on one engine tells you nothing about the others.
Camshaft lobe wear on pre-1989 engines
M103Engines built before 1989
A tapping or ticking from the top of the engine, and metal in the oil.
A known weakness of the early build only. The timing chain itself is robust on this engine, but the plastic chain guides go brittle with age — if the head is off for any reason, they are replaced while it is accessible rather than as a second job later.
Oil weeping down the back right of the engine, usually without losing coolant.
A design weakness where the timing cover meets the cylinder head. On this engine it leaks to atmosphere rather than into the coolant, so it is an oil stain and a smell rather than a mayonnaise cap — which is why it gets ignored for years. It is a head-off job, so it is worth doing the chain guides and the wiring at the same time.
Random misfires, warning lights that come and go, or a car that will not start with no obvious cause.
The insulation on the later harnesses goes hard, cracks and then turns to powder, shorting whatever it touches. Chasing individual faults on one of these is money spent twice — the harness is replaced as a unit.
The variable-length intake runs small flaps on vacuum actuators, and the plastic gears inside the actuator motor strip. There is also a linkage inside the manifold that can come apart, and a rubber hose that perishes — both need the plenum stripped, so it is one job whichever it turns out to be.
On this family the head gasket itself rarely fails. Almost every time, it is one or both of the two large rubber O-rings that seal between the timing case and the block. Worth knowing before anybody quotes you for head gaskets: it is the cheaper diagnosis and the far commoner one.
Oil and coolant mixing, or a coolant leak at the front of the engine.
Shares the M112's two failure points: the timing case O-rings rather than the head gasket, and a thermostat housing gasket that leaks at the front. Both are age rather than mileage. Otherwise this and the M112 are generally regarded as the most reliable Mercedes engines of their era, so a well-kept one is worth repairing.
M2732005–2007 cars inside specific engine serial ranges
Check engine light with a camshaft correlation code — the V8 version of the M272 balance shaft fault.
Same root cause as the M272 balance shaft gear: a sintered gear with inadequate wear characteristics in early production. Same engine-out repair. Confirm the engine serial before committing to parts.
Codes a scan would show: P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019
Misfire codes, or oil seeping around the cam covers.
The later development of the M275 and it inherits the same ignition layout — coils supplied per bank rather than singly — and the same tendency for cam cover gaskets to weep oil onto them. Twelve cylinders means twelve of everything, which is the whole cost story on this engine.
You cannot replace one coil. They come as a single unit per bank, so one dead cylinder means buying twelve coils' worth of hardware with eleven of them healthy. Budget for it before the diagnosis rather than after. Valve cover gaskets weep oil down onto the packs and kill them, so the gaskets are part of the same job.
Oil pooling where the intake pipes meet the manifold, or a running fault on half the engine.
The PCV system lets oil build up at the intake joint and leak. The cylinder deactivation system on this engine is complicated and its solenoid pack and oil pressure tubes give trouble — worth identifying before anyone starts on the top end.
A very rough idle, and oil or diesel weeping from the pump.
The pump can leak both oil and fuel, and a rough idle that nobody can explain is often this rather than injectors. The pump is lubricated from the engine oil circuit on this family, so an oil leak there is not a separate system.
A hard black tar building up around the injectors, a smell of diesel, and a knocking that gets worse.
The injector seal fails and combustion gases blow past, baking fuel and soot into a hard carbon mass around the injector. Left alone it seizes the injector into the head. The seals are replaced every single time an injector is disturbed — that is not an upsell, it is what stops this happening.
Coolant disappearing, white smoke, or coolant found in the intake.
The EGR cooler can split and put coolant into the inlet tract, and the cylinder head can crack and lose coolant under load. Both present as coolant loss with no puddle, and they are very different bills — pressure-test before ordering anything.
Coolant loss, overheating, or combustion pressure in the cooling system.
Heat from the trap oxidiser mounted at the head cooked the first-generation aluminium heads. The original #14 casting is the weak one and cracks if it has ever overheated; the later #17 and #22 castings are the recognised cure. If you are buying a head for one of these, the casting number is the whole question.
Hard starting, especially cold, and a rough idle until it warms.
Shares the OM605's leaking delivery valves. These engines have a reputation for lasting indefinitely and largely deserve it — when one runs badly it is usually fuel delivery or the wiring, not the engine.
Oil leaking from the back of the engine, often mistaken for a rear main seal, and oil dripping onto the gearbox.
The oil cooler sits in the V of the engine and its seals cook. Mercedes moved to Viton seals as the factory standard in 2010 for exactly this reason. The seals themselves are cheap; the published book time for the job is 12.3 hours, which is the entire story of this repair — quote the labour, not the O-ring.
Engine management light and the car refusing to rev past roughly 3,000 rpm.
The swirl flap motor sits below the turbo. Oil from a leaking turbo seal runs down into its electrics and kills it. Replacing the motor without finding where the oil came from buys the same fault again.
Turbo actuator failure and the turbo inlet pipe seal
OM642
Limp mode, no boost, or a boost-deviation code under load.
The actuator is one of the most common failures on this engine. The red turbo inlet pipe seal is the other — most of the time it has either been fitted wrongly or has swollen and never been changed, and it can take the inlet port shut-off motor with it.
These are known faults, not your car’s faults. Plenty of these cars never see any of them, and several of the faults above look identical from the driver’s seat while needing completely different parts. Have it scanned, send us the codes and the chassis number, and we will quote what it actually needs rather than what it might.
If it is the gearbox
Mercedes fitted the five-speed, seven-speed and nine-speed automatics across overlapping years, so we read the gearbox code off your data card rather than guessing it from the model year. If yours is a 722.9, this is the fault to know about.
722.9 conductor plate and valve body
Harsh or jerky changes, holding a gear too long then slamming into the next, or dropping into limp mode.
The conductor plate is the control module mounted on the valve body. When it breaks down internally it can no longer read input shaft speed properly, so it cannot judge torque converter slip and the lock-up goes wrong — which is what you feel. It usually starts intermittent and always becomes permanent. The other failure is mechanical wear in the valve body bores, and the two feel the same, so diagnose before buying: one is a module and the other is a valve body.
These are known faults, not your car’s faults. Plenty of these cars never see any of them, and several of the faults above look identical from the driver’s seat while needing completely different parts. Have it scanned, send us the codes and the chassis number, and we will quote what it actually needs rather than what it might.
Questions we get askedchassis number, genuine or aftermarket, lead times
Questions we get asked
Which years is the W463 G-Class?
1990–2018. Body variants: Short wheelbase, long wheelbase, cabriolet W463 and the 6x6 and 4x4² specials. Cars built in a changeover year can be either generation, so if yours sits on the boundary send the chassis number and we will confirm which one it is before anything is ordered.
How do I find my chassis number?
In the UAE the quickest place is your mulkiya — the vehicle registration card. On the car it is at the base of the windscreen on the driver's side, and on the sticker inside the driver's door jamb. It is seventeen characters and all of them matter.
Do you supply genuine, OEM or aftermarket parts?
All three, and which one makes sense depends on the part and the car. A wear item on a high-mileage car rarely justifies a genuine price; a sensor or a control module usually does. Tell us the part and the car and we will price the options side by side rather than choosing for you.
Can you supply used parts?
For body panels, lights, interior trim and some assemblies, yes. For wear items and safety parts we will normally recommend new. We will say which we are quoting — a used part sold as new is not a saving, it is a problem later.
How long does it take?
Parts held in the UAE are usually same or next day. Anything ordered in takes longer and we will tell you the lead time with the price, before you commit, rather than after.
Get in touch
Need a part for a W463?
Send the chassis number and a photograph of the part or the damage. We will come back with the options — genuine, OEM or aftermarket — with prices and lead times side by side.
