1984–1997. Saloon W124, estate S124, coupé C124, cabriolet A124. Tell us the chassis number and what the car is doing, and we will come back with the part, the price and the lead time.
An E-Class W124. Shown to help you confirm the generation — trim, lights and bumpers vary within it.CC0 · Wikimedia Commons
Every part
Parts for the W124
All 415 parts across 16 systems, from brake discs to AIRMATIC struts. Search it, or open the system that matches what the car is doing — the symptom is written on every one.
415 parts across 16 systems
Brakes31 parts+
Everything that slows and stops the car.
You are here because: Squealing or grinding when braking, a soft or long pedal, a brake warning light, or pulling to one side under braking.
To quote this we need: Front or rear, and whether the car has the sports or AMG brake package — the disc diameter changes with it.
What holds the wheels to the car, absorbs the road, and points the car where you steer.
You are here because: Knocking over bumps, the car sitting low on one corner, wandering or heavy steering, uneven tyre wear, or an AIRMATIC warning.
To quote this we need: Whether the car is on steel springs or air suspension. On Mercedes this changes the part completely and it is the most common mis-order.
The sensors the car reads and the modules that decide what to do about them.
You are here because: A warning light with no obvious fault, a fault code from a scan, windows or locks that stop working, or intermittent electrics.
To quote this we need: The fault code if a garage has scanned it. Many modules must be coded to the car after fitting — that is a job as well as a part.
Seeing and being seen — and on a modern Mercedes, one of the most expensive things to replace.
You are here because: A cracked or fogged light, a bulb out, condensation inside the unit, or a lighting fault on the dash.
To quote this we need: Whether the car is halogen, xenon or LED, and pre- or post-facelift. Lights change inside a generation more than any other part.
Panels, glass and trim — what an accident, a car park or the sun damages.
You are here because: Accident damage, a dent or rust, a knocked-off mirror, peeling trim, or a cracked screen.
To quote this we need: A photograph, the chassis code and the paint code. Paint code is on the data sticker; panels are usually supplied primed, not painted.
Everything inside the cabin, including the parts the Gulf sun destroys first.
You are here because: A cracked or sticky dashboard, a sagging roof lining, a broken switch or handle, worn seat bolsters, or a rattle from the trim.
To quote this we need: Trim colour and code from the data sticker. The same part is made in several finishes and they are not interchangeable to look at.
Complete assemblies from stripped cars, where a new part is not proportionate to the job.
You are here because: An expensive assembly has failed on an older car, or an insurance repair has to be done at a price that makes sense.
To quote this we need: Chassis number and a photograph. We will say plainly whether a part is new or used — a used part sold as new is not a saving, it is a problem later.
These are the parts a Mercedes-Benz E-Class W124 (1984–1997) is built from, not a stock list. We source genuine, OEM and aftermarket and will price them side by side — send the chassis number and we will confirm the exact part before anything is ordered.
The detail on this car
Make sure this is your carchassis code, years and body variants
Make sure this is your car
The W124 was built 1984–1997. Two E-Class cars a year apart can be different generations and share almost no parts, so the chassis code — not the model name and not the year — is what decides fitment.
Worth knowing. Still running in numbers across the Gulf, and the parts are still available — mechanical and body more readily than trim. Four separate bodies on one chassis code, and the coupé and cabriolet share very little sheet metal with the saloon.
Not sure which one you have? Read the chassis number off your mulkiya, or from the base of the windscreen on the driver's side. Send us all seventeen characters and we will tell you the generation, the body and usually the engine. How to read it.
Which engine do you havebadge on the boot to engine code
Which engine do you have
Engines fitted to the W124
Find the badge on the boot of your car in the left column. The code beside it is what we order parts against — several groups below need it, and emissions parts need it most.
Badge on the car
Engine code
Engine
Fuel
200 / 200 E
M102
2.0 four-cylinder
petrol
200 E / 220 E
M111
2.0–2.2 four-cylinder
petrol
260 E / 300 E
M103
2.6–3.0 straight-six
petrol
280 E / 320 E / E 320
M104
2.8–3.6 straight-six
petrol
400 E / E 420 / E 500
M119
4.2–6.0 V8
petrol
200 D
OM601
2.0 four-cylinder
diesel
250 D / 250 D Turbo
OM602
2.5 straight-five
diesel
300 D / 300 D Turbo
OM603
3.0 straight-six
diesel
E 250 / E 300 Diesel
OM605
2.5 straight-five
diesel
E 300 Diesel
OM606
3.0 straight-six
diesel
Not every engine reached every market — the UAE range is predominantly petrol. If your badge is not listed, or the car has been re-badged, the engine code is stamped on the block and printed on the data card; send the chassis number and we will read it off that instead.
What goes wrong on this carresearched per engine, with sources
Known faults
What goes wrong on the W124
Researched per engine and per chassis, with the source shown against each one. If what your car is doing is on this list, you already know roughly what you are buying.
On the W124 itself
Faults that belong to the car rather than to whichever engine is in it.
Biodegradable wiring harness
Cars built roughly 1992–1997, every model and both fuels
Faults that move around — misfires, warning lights that come and go, electrics that work one day and not the next, and brittle or bare wiring visible in the engine bay.
Mercedes used a soy-based insulation on the looms through these years. Heat and time harden it, then it cracks, then it turns to powder and leaves bare copper shorting against whatever it touches. Chasing the individual faults is money spent twice — the loom is replaced as a unit. How to tell: lime-green wiring is the affected type. A two-wire sender in blue and brown, or a single-wire temperature sender with a black wire, is the good harness. It is usually the upper and lower engine looms that go first.
These are known faults, not your car’s faults. Plenty of these cars never see any of them, and several of the faults above look identical from the driver’s seat while needing completely different parts. Have it scanned, send us the codes and the chassis number, and we will quote what it actually needs rather than what it might.
On the engines fitted to it
Check the engine code against the badge on your boot in the table above — a fault on one engine tells you nothing about the others.
Cylinder head gasket, worst on the Kompressor
M111
White smoke on start-up, a milky film under the oil cap, coolant disappearing with no puddle, or overheating.
An aluminium head on an iron block, which does not tolerate a single boil-over: one overheat can warp the head and take the gasket with it. The supercharged versions run higher cylinder pressures and fail sooner. If it has overheated, the head needs skimming and checking, not just a new gasket.
Stalling at idle, a hot engine that will not restart until it cools, or a dead no-start.
Heat soak off the exhaust manifold degrades it, so the classic presentation is a car that is fine cold and refuses when hot. Cheap part, and worth carrying a spare on a high-mileage car.
M111Chain stretch reported between 100,000 and 125,000 miles
Rattle on start-up, or a whine from the supercharger that was not there before.
The chain stretches with age. Separately, the supercharger on the Kompressor cars has its OWN oil supply — it is not fed by the engine, and it will not tell you it is dry until it has failed. That oil is a service item most people never touch.
A tapping or ticking from the top of the engine, and metal in the oil.
A known weakness of the early build only. The timing chain itself is robust on this engine, but the plastic chain guides go brittle with age — if the head is off for any reason, they are replaced while it is accessible rather than as a second job later.
Oil weeping down the back right of the engine, usually without losing coolant.
A design weakness where the timing cover meets the cylinder head. On this engine it leaks to atmosphere rather than into the coolant, so it is an oil stain and a smell rather than a mayonnaise cap — which is why it gets ignored for years. It is a head-off job, so it is worth doing the chain guides and the wiring at the same time.
Random misfires, warning lights that come and go, or a car that will not start with no obvious cause.
The insulation on the later harnesses goes hard, cracks and then turns to powder, shorting whatever it touches. Chasing individual faults on one of these is money spent twice — the harness is replaced as a unit.
Misfires, intermittent warning lights, or running faults that move around.
The harness insulation turns to powder with age and heat. There are two to think about: the main loom over the top of the engine, and the cable from the battery to the alternator. The vacuum lines in the same bay go hard for the same reason — this engine runs hot.
Top-end noise, or a misfire that will not pin down to one cylinder.
The cam oiler tubes are the recognised weak point, and they do not fail at any predictable mileage. On ignition, remember this engine has TWO distributor caps and two rotors — double the parts and double the cost, and replacing one is half a job. Despite its reputation, actual timing chain failure on this engine is close to unheard of when the oil has been changed.
A very rough idle, and oil or diesel weeping from the pump.
The pump can leak both oil and fuel, and a rough idle that nobody can explain is often this rather than injectors. The pump is lubricated from the engine oil circuit on this family, so an oil leak there is not a separate system.
Coolant loss, overheating, or combustion pressure in the cooling system.
Heat from the trap oxidiser mounted at the head cooked the first-generation aluminium heads. The original #14 casting is the weak one and cracks if it has ever overheated; the later #17 and #22 castings are the recognised cure. If you are buying a head for one of these, the casting number is the whole question.
Hard starting, a rough idle, or a tick from the top end.
The delivery valves in the injection pump are prone to leaking on this engine and on the OM606, and that is the usual cause of hard starting rather than the injectors themselves. Timing chain stretch and lifter noise are the other two recognised complaints.
Hard starting, especially cold, and a rough idle until it warms.
Shares the OM605's leaking delivery valves. These engines have a reputation for lasting indefinitely and largely deserve it — when one runs badly it is usually fuel delivery or the wiring, not the engine.
These are known faults, not your car’s faults. Plenty of these cars never see any of them, and several of the faults above look identical from the driver’s seat while needing completely different parts. Have it scanned, send us the codes and the chassis number, and we will quote what it actually needs rather than what it might.
If it is the gearbox
Mercedes fitted the five-speed, seven-speed and nine-speed automatics across overlapping years, so we read the gearbox code off your data card rather than guessing it from the model year. If yours is a 722.9, this is the fault to know about.
722.9 conductor plate and valve body
Harsh or jerky changes, holding a gear too long then slamming into the next, or dropping into limp mode.
The conductor plate is the control module mounted on the valve body. When it breaks down internally it can no longer read input shaft speed properly, so it cannot judge torque converter slip and the lock-up goes wrong — which is what you feel. It usually starts intermittent and always becomes permanent. The other failure is mechanical wear in the valve body bores, and the two feel the same, so diagnose before buying: one is a module and the other is a valve body.
These are known faults, not your car’s faults. Plenty of these cars never see any of them, and several of the faults above look identical from the driver’s seat while needing completely different parts. Have it scanned, send us the codes and the chassis number, and we will quote what it actually needs rather than what it might.
Questions we get askedchassis number, genuine or aftermarket, lead times
Questions we get asked
Which years is the W124 E-Class?
1984–1997. Body variants: Saloon W124, estate S124, coupé C124, cabriolet A124. Cars built in a changeover year can be either generation, so if yours sits on the boundary send the chassis number and we will confirm which one it is before anything is ordered.
How do I find my chassis number?
In the UAE the quickest place is your mulkiya — the vehicle registration card. On the car it is at the base of the windscreen on the driver's side, and on the sticker inside the driver's door jamb. It is seventeen characters and all of them matter.
Do you supply genuine, OEM or aftermarket parts?
All three, and which one makes sense depends on the part and the car. A wear item on a high-mileage car rarely justifies a genuine price; a sensor or a control module usually does. Tell us the part and the car and we will price the options side by side rather than choosing for you.
Can you supply used parts?
For body panels, lights, interior trim and some assemblies, yes. For wear items and safety parts we will normally recommend new. We will say which we are quoting — a used part sold as new is not a saving, it is a problem later.
How long does it take?
Parts held in the UAE are usually same or next day. Anything ordered in takes longer and we will tell you the lead time with the price, before you commit, rather than after.
Get in touch
Need a part for a W124?
Send the chassis number and a photograph of the part or the damage. We will come back with the options — genuine, OEM or aftermarket — with prices and lead times side by side.
