Also called traction battery, HV battery, main battery.
How you know it is this
- A large drop in range that has not recovered
- A high-voltage system warning
- The car refusing to charge past a certain point
- Reduced power, or the car limiting itself
- A fault after an underbody impact
Worth knowing before you buy
- SEVERAL HUNDRED VOLTS DC. This is not a part to handle without training and equipment, and it is heavy enough to need proper lifting gear.
- THE WHOLE PACK IS RARELY THE ANSWER. A single weak module, a coolant leak or the management electronics account for most pack faults, and the diagnosis names which. Get that before contemplating a pack.
- Gradual capacity loss over years is normal degradation, not a failure. Heat accelerates it, which matters here — a car that spends its life in this climate and fast-charges often will age faster than the same car in Europe.
- Most are under warranty for a long period. Check that first, always.
- An underbody impact is a genuine reason to have a pack inspected even with no warning light.
What we need to quote it. The chassis number, the fault codes, a state-of-health report if one has been taken, and the car's warranty status. The chassis number settles the generation, the body and usually the engine in seventeen characters — it is on your mulkiya. A photograph of the old part helps where there is more than one version.
Rest of the traction battery
Get in touch
High-voltage battery pack for your Mercedes-Benz?
Send the chassis number and a photograph of the old part. We come back with genuine, OEM and aftermarket options priced side by side, with lead times.
Mon–Sat, 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM · +971 54 303 3119 (Operations Director) · +971 54 241 0599 (Managing Director)